Quebec City is still, hands down, one of my favorite places in Canada (and the world). It's so charming, European, quaint and oh so very romantic. Cue the saxophone player (no, I kid you not, there's actually a sax player).
Having been to Quebec City over 40 times, I've come to love the Lower Town area. It's got everything you could possibly want: art galleries, historical buildings, quaint cafes and a mini sugar shack.
It's probably good for my sugar intake that I stopped touring Quebec.
Having taken grade 7 and 8's on tours of this area, some of the best discovered places weren't on my original tour, so I've happily added them in now.
Start in Place Royale.
Place Royale was the main square, where Quebec City began. In fact, if you have a quick look down you can see the black markings (near the church) of where Samuel de Champlain's original habitation was. It quickly became the town market square, where the buying and trading of goods took place. There was (of course) a fire, and the original structures (made out of wood) burned down. The town rebuilt, and you can see a lot of the typical architecture structures in the main square, namely:
Steep Roofs
Firewalls
Dormer Windows
Ladders on Roofs
The church in the square is called Notre-Dame des Victories - Our lady of the (multiple) victories. It had a few names until the Quebecois had multiple victories and landed on the name. If it's open, check it out. Its wooden pews and simple design are beautiful, so it's worth taking a stroll through.
If you're looking straight at the church and the buildings to its left, you can squint your eyes and it looks just like the scene in Catch me if you can (starring Leonardo DiCaprio). It was set up to look like France. That was one of the few facts the kids liked (oh and me too).
There's also a museum that has a few worthwhile exhibits showcasing the deep history this area has in forming this area and in turn, Canada.
It's also hard to miss the bust of King Louis the 14th (The "Sun King"), which had been removed from Place Royale but brought back to preserve the historical feel of the square. He looks straight out at the St. Lawrence River, probably to ensure all passing ships knew who was boss.
If you are facing the water and walk left past the bust, you will come across a large fresco, called La Fresque des Québécois. This is the largest fresco in the city, and has so many hidden images and meanings. There's a chart that should help you find famous historical figures, the four seasons, and Quebecois past traditions and contemporary ones too. I'll let you read the sign to figure out what's what.
Walking back towards Place Royale, keep walking straight past the Church and make your first right. You'll be coming up to a staircase, affectionately known as the "Break-Neck Stairs" or les escaliers casse-cou. It's affectionately named that because of the steep incline. These stairs are the oldest in the area, built in the mid 1600's, and they connect Rue de la Montagne with the oldest street (in North America, perhaps?) called Rue Petit Champlain.
Rue Petit-Champlain wasn't always the cute street that you see today. It was fixed up in the 80's and made to be awfully charming. There are some nice shops, bakeries and restaurants. You cannot leave without visiting my favorite spot on the street, Le Cochon Dingue. OK, so it's part of a chain but I've never had an unpleasant moment in that place. The hot chocolate is to die for, and the baked goods are tres bien. If you don't have time for a full sit-down experience, have no fear as Le Petit Cochon Dingue is next door, serving up delicious treats.
I've also eaten at nearby Resto le sous-fort, where Brad and I dined on fois gras (well, he did, I just tried it) and some other delicious French cuisine.
If you have a couple of bucks (although I think the price has increased since I was there last - inflation) and want a novel experience, take the funiculaire from Lower Town back up to Upper Town. It'll remind you that you're lazy, but at least you'll have a nice view.
If you have kids (or a sweet tooth), Petit Champlain is the place for you - there's a fudge shop, a mini Cabane a Sucre (Sugar Shack - where they tap the trees for delicious maple syrup) and other sweets stores. Needless to say I spent many a "free-time" hour down here. There's even a place that sells maple soft serve ice cream. Yum!
Don't forget to walk along the water too, you can see the ferry heading back and forth between Levis and the infamous Louis Joillet, used for many a Grade 8 boat cruise. You may even stumble across Quebec's "Statue of Liberty", a statue given to the city from France which is supposed to be Samuel de Champlain. Go figure.
This is just a snippet of my full Lower Town Quebec City Walking tour. If you want more, please feel free to contact me.